Fluid bed mesh levleing reddit

I would set the Mesh to -.5 to .5 that would show me a more indicative of the problems my nozzle would see. when I look at my Fluidd mesh I would use probed Marcie and use the wire frame. Then I would set color scale to minimum. I would also set bed scale to 1.0. I got tired of my old ender 3 v2 heat plate, build plate, and the upgraded yellow ...

Fluid bed mesh levleing reddit. Closed. BorisBrock opened this issue on Feb 22, 2020 · 5 comments. BorisBrock commented on Feb 22, 2020 •. edited. I have set up the levelling as follows: …

I use Cura and PrusaSlicer for various reasons, and I've noticed that they heat up differently. Cura heats the bed to the right temp, and then heats the nozzle. Prusa sends both commands at the same time, and proceeds after both have reached the right temp. This means that depending on what hardware you have, Cura can have a significantly ...

Uneven first layer after auto bed leveling with CR Touch. I just installed a CR Touch on a CR-10 V2 and I flashed Marlin with mesh bed leveling. However, when I try printing the first layer after bed leveling, it seems the corners are always too close, the middle is too far, and the left side is closer to the bed than the right side.Can't get fluidd to run a bed mesh. After hours of laborious work, I finally got my 3 printers set up and running klipper. The E3v2 and the Kobra go are working fine afaik. My cr10, …The purpose of the leveling mesh is to allow the printer to adjust height as it moves across the bed. Auto level should detect appropriate values. Leave Z offset at zero. Have you checked belt and wheel tension? Too tight or loose can cause problems. Calculates the distance the bed needs to change over each screw to minimize variance and average position from 0. Outputs the amount each screw needs to be adjusted in degrees. Cons: 1) This needs math/programming skills that are way past my capabilities. 2) Most cheap printers use 4 screws to adjust the bed (mine included), which can introduce ... I have this in the bed leveling plug-in (the add sign is between because the reddit will turn it into a link. M140 S60 ; starting by heating the bed for nominal mesh accuracy G28 ; home all axes M190 S60 ; waiting until the bed is fully warmed up (@)BEDLEVELVISUALIZER ; tell the plugin to watch for reported mesh BED_MESH_OUTPUT Once flying high on their status as Reddit stocks, these nine penny stocks are falling back towards prior price levels. These Reddit stocks are falling back toward penny-stock pric...Make sure that your bplate is not accidentally on those little white pieces of plastic that are guides on the edges of the build plate. If the nozzle sees that there is a drastic difference because it’s essentially sitting on a taller surface. The mesh will fail. I recently had issues with that (high temp plate).

I have an ender 3 pro with some modifications making the bed a little bit smaller than it is. Regardless, when it goes to do a z-home, bed mesh leveling, or even printing, it just acts as if the bed dimensions are massive ignoring all endstops to get where it thinks it needs to be. And endstops are working correctly when I test them. [bed_mesh] speed: 800 mesh_min: 30, 20 mesh_max: 210, 200 probe_count: 5,5 algorithm: bicubic move_check_distance: 3.0 relative_reference_index: 4 I have already disassembled the bltouch to make sure it is connected properly (and again, for homing, it works), but there’s no way I can get the printer to calibrate.Bed leveling is done with the nozzle heated to 160°C, it then fully heats right after. Two solutions: one simpler and one a bit less. The first is to preheat the printer before starting to print. The oozing is the strongest at the beginning, then it slows down to almost nothing.Heat up the nozzle to the first layer temp. Let it sit there until it stops leaking. All the while cleaning any filament that gets stuck around the nozzle. Once it's ready, I hit print and presto...a clean nozzle at the start of every print. W4tchmaker • 2 yr. ago. That's oozing, and it's fairly normal. The filament is under some pressure as ... Fluidd + klipper bed mesh problem. Question. So I just finally got klipper and fluidd installed on my E3S1Pro that I just got 2 days ago. I have everything up and running after much faffing about. I went to print my first print and realized the bed wasn't leveled for the new firmware. For mesh leveling to work you want to get the bed as level as possible first at the for corners. The mesh adjustment can only do so much, so you need to do your best to make them as close as possible. Then do the mesh leveling. Go into the bed leveling screen and look at edit mesh.

M104 S120 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing and auto bed leveling M140 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ; set final bed temp G4 S10 ; allow partial nozzle warmup M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ; wait for bed G28 ; home all axis BED_MESH_CALIBRATE ; Calibrate bed - save temp G1 Z50 F240 The printer now thinks the bed is higher than it is. I recommend you just pre-heat the nozzle and bed. That way if there’s something on the tip it will get wiped onto the paper. Now tram the bed manually. Don’t use the probe for this. Use manual and jump to each corner and use the bed level knobs with a piece of paper.This article is part of an ongoing BULLETIN series exploring GE’s innovation, technology, and manufacturing initiatives in India. This article is part of an ongoing BULLETIN series...Adding fluid to a manual transmission is more difficult than adding fluid to an automatic transmission. For an automatic transmission, you just pop the hood and add the fluid into ...From what i've read so far you need to code the M420 S# Z# after the G28, as the G28 command will disable usage of the mesh, and the M420 will reactivate it. S# is whatever slot it's saved in the eeprom, and Z# is a number in mm for the printer to use it up to. For example: M420 S1 Z3 would activate the mesh saved in slot 1, and use that ...

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----- Optional steps if you want mesh bed levelling features. Adding manual mesh bed levelling (without BL touch for example). If you want to activate mesh bed levelling, you need to uncomment the following lines before compiling the code: #define MESH_BED_LEVELING #define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 …Bed Leveling go to Level Corners and level the bed using the spring wheels following the on-screen instructions go to Level Bed and level the bed using the control knob following the on-screen instructions go to Store Settings to save your bed mesh details Now, go to Cura, Preferences, select your printer and click on machine settings. Auto bed leveling should compensate regardless of how far it's uneven. My bed is basically like this just for moving the print head and testing it with a paper. Before each power down, I realign the gantry, heat the bed/probe, and do a height map. Many times the middle will be past 0 so I have to reprobe. I was working on getting my bed leveling working in fluidd but when whenever I run the Bed Mesh it shows my bed is slanted like crazy. When I used octoprint a few weeks ago before I switched to fluidd it was fine. Why is this happening when my bed is level? Bed Mesh. My Code. It looks like this when I did it again.Auto bed leveling should compensate regardless of how far it's uneven. My bed is basically like this just for moving the print head and testing it with a paper. Before each power down, I realign the gantry, heat the bed/probe, and do a height map. Many times the middle will be past 0 so I have to reprobe. Yes. G28 disables bed mesh so the sensor can home your Z axis without mesh compensation. You then need the M240 S1 to load the mesh once it’s homed. Don’t use Sovol Cura. I’d recommend actual Cura or the latest Orca Slicer that has Sovol printer profiles included. true.

Bed mesh for the X1 carbon visualised! Thanks to the incredible effort from https://www.wolfwithsword.com. Data collected from the X1 directly using node red. Pretty level actually, the variation is roughly 2 layer heights and mostly due to the left and right rear corners being a bit higher than the centre of the bed. Dizzy-Light2093.Result of 100x100 mesh bed leveling reveals influence of magnets on PINDA. it's in the menu on the printer, you can tell it to avoid the magnets. It doesn't avoid them, it just adjusts the values for those by magnets. Not sure if its a static adjustment or if they just average out the points around it. it ignores the values at the magnets and ... If you do a 3x3 it is not so bad doing a new mesh each time but with 10x10 it takes forever. Once you get a good mesh you can keep it until there is a significant change (new bed, reassemble printer, etc). You can always check with G26 and tune some spots every once in a while. I am using silicon standoffs and my mesh lasts a couple weeks at least. M104 S120 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing and auto bed leveling M140 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ; set final bed temp G4 S10 ; allow partial nozzle warmup M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ; wait for bed G28 ; home all axis BED_MESH_CALIBRATE ; Calibrate bed - save temp G1 Z50 F240 Once flying high on their status as Reddit stocks, these nine penny stocks are falling back towards prior price levels. These Reddit stocks are falling back toward penny-stock pric... Bed leveling - I don't know why it was missed but the bed mesh load command isn't in the start g-code by default in any slicer I've tried so far. There's a few posts here for adding the M420 macro to printer.cfg and then just adding M420 to the start G-code in your slicer software. Once flying high on their status as Reddit stocks, these nine penny stocks are falling back towards prior price levels. These Reddit stocks are falling back toward penny-stock pric...Bed Mesh leveling is smaller than actual sized bed mesh - K1 Max. Hi, I recently acquired a K1 Max and started printing as a complete novice. A few minor hiccups learning here and there but overall a smooth experience. I have Klipper install and run bed mesh leveling pretty often since my bed mesh for some reason adjust itself a little every ...Make sure that your bplate is not accidentally on those little white pieces of plastic that are guides on the edges of the build plate. If the nozzle sees that there is a drastic difference because it’s essentially sitting on a taller surface. The mesh will fail. I recently had issues with that (high temp plate). The goal of the nyloc mesh level exercise is to give the mesh level algorithm a much better starting point to begin correcting from. I noticed that even with proper tightening on my heated bed and y axis frame, the mesh algorithm seemed to be using a curve fit to interpolate between measurement points that didn't line up with reality. It turns out the defaut mesh is no longer loading automatically. You need to manually load it on the /heightmap page, or in the start G code using BED_MESH_PROFILE Load="default". In addition to this, I discovered 2 more …It turns out the defaut mesh is no longer loading automatically. You need to manually load it on the /heightmap page, or in the start G code using BED_MESH_PROFILE Load="default". In addition to this, I discovered 2 more …

Bed mesh for the X1 carbon visualised! Thanks to the incredible effort from https://www.wolfwithsword.com. Data collected from the X1 directly using node red. Pretty level actually, the variation is roughly 2 layer heights and mostly due to the left and right rear corners being a bit higher than the centre of the bed. Dizzy-Light2093.

While printing, gradually reduce leveling correction until the specified height is reached. At which point the movement will be level to the machine’s XY plane as if bed leveling was disabled. When Z is not provided or is set to zero (eg M420 Z0), the leveling correction is fully applied at all heights Bed Leveling Fail on P1S. Troubleshooting. Weird issue - I’ve had my P1S for 3-4 weeks and have had just flawless prints for the most part with absolute minimal effort. Yesterday, ai finished a 3 color print right around lunchtime, then a few hours later went to start another one. After maybe 30 minutes I realized I wasn’t hearing any ... So I've setup the mesh bed leveling because I though that it was a sort of auto bed level with no auto bed level. But then I found out the bilinear bed level that seems the same as the mesh bed level so what's is the difference? Marlin docs doesn't seems so clear about this. Oh and I'd like to know: do you know how to save the previous Z height ...Each button will move the mesh the set distance at that specific mesh point (The Show Mesh button displays in the terminal). The buttons are inverted to how the mesh points are displayed in the terminal as the buttons correspond to the physical mesh positions on the print bed. Keep doing this until you get the same friction on paper as before.\. Send the command “ACCEPT” then “SAVE_CONFIG”\. Lastly perform a auto bed level, once complete, before pressing the save button test your z offset. Move it up 1mm, put paper under, move it down 1mm. It should be same friction as all 4 corners as before. Lastly press ... belboz. •. After running the 5x5 bed level you need to do the store settings option in the menu. If it isn't in the same menu as the bed level you can definitely find it under the configuration menu. Not sure how they compiled marlin for the sv06 but it usually beeps when you store settings to indicate it saved.View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. Manual Mesh Bed Leveling with with TH3D 1.10 - need start codes to load automatically from Eeprom . Printer is an Ender 3 using Cura and Octopi Some places say to use M420 s1, some say you have to do a series of G29's , I can't seem to find a solid …Seems like after a firmware update recently the bed mesh isn't applying to any prints. At first it looked like under extrusion, which I believe I fixed by taking the extruder apart and cleaning. Adjusted the belt tension which fixed a bunch of the vibration as well hoping that would have helped.All three of those auto bed leveling options at the first link I shared use Z correction. The first two just adjust with an overall tilt. As in, they treat the bed itself as if it's perfectly flat, but just not leveled correctly. The third option (bilinear) creates an actual 3d mesh and corrects for bed unevenness along with tilt. - Change bed mesh from 5x5 to 3x3. Start at 36,36 and end at 183,183 - In printer.cfg change all Z offset values to 0.000, don't run auto bed level again. It's out of range. - Move nozzle to 110,110 (Center point) and Z to 0.2mm - Use filler gauge 0.23mm and 0.2mm to adjust Z height 0.2mm gauge should slide in but not 0.23mm then save/restart

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Jan 2, 2023. m00dawg. Well-known member. Jan 2, 2023. #1. Printer Model. 2.4. Extruder Type. Clockwork 2. Cooling Type. Stealthburner. I've read over the mesh bed leveling …Mesh gutter guards can keep your gutters clear of most debris types. We've outlined the best mesh gutter guards for both DIY and professional installation here. Expert Advice On Im...Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Ender 3.Run ABL. Adjust center offset using paper method. Slowly mode the nozzle to 0x0 coordinates, slowly, while watching the nozzle and lowering the bed to ensure it doesn’t scrape. Once at 0x0 - raise the bed slowly and use the paper method until it binds slightly.The bed mesh is calculated using the mesh_min and mesh_max. This is separate from the bed size. You could make a mesh of just one side of your bed if you really wanted (note: that would be weird, don't do that). From Config reference for stepper position_max: Maximum valid distance (in mm) the user may command the stepper to move to. There is ... I have this in the bed leveling plug-in (the add sign is between because the reddit will turn it into a link. M140 S60 ; starting by heating the bed for nominal mesh accuracy G28 ; home all axes M190 S60 ; waiting until the bed is fully warmed up (@)BEDLEVELVISUALIZER ; tell the plugin to watch for reported mesh BED_MESH_OUTPUT That sucks. After applying your fix the official bed leveling method went from giving me a 1.6 variance to a .4 which still isn’t as low as I’d like but significantly better. I’m starting my first print since fixing it right now. Hopefully it goes smoothly. While printing, gradually reduce leveling correction until the specified height is reached. At which point the movement will be level to the machine’s XY plane as if bed leveling was disabled. When Z is not provided or is set to zero (eg M420 Z0), the leveling correction is fully applied at all heights ….

Bed mesh for the X1 carbon visualised! Thanks to the incredible effort from https://www.wolfwithsword.com. Data collected from the X1 directly using node red. Pretty level actually, the variation is roughly 2 layer heights and mostly due to the left and right rear corners being a bit higher than the centre of the bed. Dizzy-Light2093.Reddit announced today that users can now search comments within a post on desktop, iOS and Android. Reddit announced today that users can now search comments within a post on desk...First, home with G28 and type SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE to adjust the bed. You can type SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE multiple times until it's close. To level the bed, you can run BED_MESH_CALIBRATE. After calibration, make sure to hit SAVE_CONFIG. Here's a sequence I run for bed leveling: M190 S60 G28 BED_MESH_CALIBRATE …MK3S+ here with 7x7 enabled. Some spots do the usual 3x (if I remember it correctly) checks up and down very quickly. Some spots require 4x checks. After the 1x check, it lifts the nozzle a few mm and then does the usual 3x checks. This happens in random spots, some runs almost no spot produces this. Some run, many spots produces this. Definitely try mesh bed leveling before deciding to purchase a BL touch or CR touch. After all, this is pretty much the same way BL/CR touch work (except they do the work for you, saving you about 2 minutes). Using manual mesh bed leveling rather than BL/CR touch saved me about $40. The 2 minutes of extra work is definitely worth it. After uploading the new firmware, Bed Leveling does not work at all. Edit Configuation h file to enable Mesh bed Leveling with manual probe. The Lines I changed. Define Probe Manually. Define Mesh_Bed_Leveling. Define Enable_Leveling_After_G28. Define Mesh_Inset 30. Define Max_Points_X 4. …I seem to be struggling with bed mesh/leveling with Klipper and getting a good first layer. I have an Ender 3 Pro w/ SKR Mini E3 v3 with a BLtouch. I've calibrated the probe's z-offset already following the Klipper docs, as well as running a bed mesh calibration (5x5).Before you perform your mesh leveling, go into the menu and set the Z offset to +<whatever the thickness of your feeler gauge is>. Once you preform the mesh leveling, reboot the printer and that offset will go back to zero. This negates the gap from the nozzle to bed created during leveling and allows your Z value to truly be Zero when the ... Fluid bed mesh levleing reddit, M104 S120 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing and auto bed leveling M140 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ; set final bed temp G4 S10 ; allow partial nozzle warmup M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ; wait for bed G28 ; home all axis BED_MESH_CALIBRATE ; Calibrate bed - save temp G1 Z50 F240 , - Change bed mesh from 5x5 to 3x3. Start at 36,36 and end at 183,183 - In printer.cfg change all Z offset values to 0.000, don't run auto bed level again. It's out of range. - Move nozzle to 110,110 (Center point) and Z to 0.2mm - Use filler gauge 0.23mm and 0.2mm to adjust Z height 0.2mm gauge should slide in but not 0.23mm then save/restart , Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. Or check it out in the app stores &nbsp; ... Mesh bed leveling failed.[0300 4002 130309] ... Topics related to heat pump HVAC, air conditioning, air and water heating and cooling. Heaty cooly, no polluty! Sister subreddit to r/DIYHeatPumps. Members Online. Failing Head upvote ..., Your best bet is to run the screws_tilt_calculate macro and adjust your bed screws until the recommended rotation is less than 0.02 on each corner, Don’t forget to run probe calibrate after that, then your Bed_Mesh_calculate. Good luck, it may take a few repetitions to get it looking good. 2. Tobor-8th-Man., Make sure your bed is preheated to the temp you run at when you make the mesh. The nozzle also needs to be preheated for the z-offset. The z-offset is the distance between your cr-touch probe and nozzle. It should be always be active with the above mentioned gcode. Your nozzle should never be closer than a layer heights distance to your bed., The bed mesh is done entirely in klipper, you'll only have to send the start commands to klipper via console/serial. If you want you can then visualize the mesh from the console output with the visualizer. Note that mesh is there to help you with a deformed/uneven bed, whilst leveling helps you level the bed when it is mounted uneven. , I just ran into this problem for the first time after swapping out my stock 0.4mm stainless hotend for a 0.4mm hardened steel hotend. ("Mesh bed leveling failed.[0300 4002 (timestamp)]"). I reran my autocalibration (from the printer itself) after the swap and didn't make it through the bed leveling. Specifically, the rear-left corner failed., I have a new question about leveling/tramming. If I look at the topo map in Fluidd I am not clear on how the printer determines where Z=0 on the vertical axis. Is it the center of the bed or the average of all the z measurements. The same bed measured by Fluidd and Mainsail have the lowest point on the topo as 0.30 above z=0. , Keep your clean clothes away from unwanted odors with a specially-designed travel laundry bag for your next big adventure. We may be compensated when you click on product links, su..., 2 Likes. TazzyTazzy January 27, 2023, 6:58am 7. WOW. My bed is so far off. I’ve had the following issues with this printer at least once: When starting a new print, it …, Got my K1 a couple of days. My bed is fairly even on the x-axis, but drops 1.3 mm front to back on the y. Watched the levelling vid and concluded it does not make much sense. First you have to assume that bottoming the bed construction will make it level to the tenths of mm... In your dreams, Creality! Second: Watch how the belts are re-mounted., Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Ender 3. , r/crealityk1. • 7 mo. ago. BigLittleLeeg. Bed_Leveling Macro in Fluidd? For those of you who have rooted your k1, has anyone figured out how to manually set the number of probe …, Rainforestnomad. • 1 yr. ago. I have an ender 3 pro and use klipper, and have had no luck with the bed mesh. Due to mechanical problems with the z and x axis, the mesh would …, OK, I checked the firmware source code. There are many influences of Mesh Bed Leveling regarding initialization, homing etc.; but during actual use, this is roughly what happens: When the firmware wants to move in a line, then the line is broken into segments of at most 3cm; each of the segment is then moved individually instead., I seem to be struggling with bed mesh/leveling with Klipper and getting a good first layer. I have an Ender 3 Pro w/ SKR Mini E3 v3 with a BLtouch. I've calibrated the probe's z-offset already following the Klipper docs, as well as running a bed mesh calibration (5x5)., Making poached eggs isn't difficult, but often the egg comes out less than perfect, without that desired, tight eggy shape. J. Kenji Lopez-Alt offers this foolproof method, which h..., The goal of the nyloc mesh level exercise is to give the mesh level algorithm a much better starting point to begin correcting from. I noticed that even with proper tightening on my heated bed and y axis frame, the mesh algorithm seemed to be using a curve fit to interpolate between measurement points that didn't line up with reality. , Manual bed mesh leveling keeps hitting binder clips. Hi, I've recently updated my Ender 3 to TH3D firmware and enabled manual bed mesh leveling, but everytime I run it I need to remove the clips otherwise the head runs into the binder clips holding my glass bed. I couldn't find any help on this anywhere. What I did was change the setting in the ..., OctoKlipper plugin had this Assisted Bed Leveling wizard that allowed me to set the 5 locations and just move the head from location to location, raising it first then lowering when it arrives at the location. It is perfect, it saves me lots of time leveling. I can't seem to find a way to do the same in Fluidd. , The bed mesh is calculated using the mesh_min and mesh_max. This is separate from the bed size. You could make a mesh of just one side of your bed if you really wanted (note: that would be weird, don't do that). From Config reference for stepper position_max: Maximum valid distance (in mm) the user may command the stepper to move to. There is ..., Prontoface / Octoprint - G29 S0 does not print mesh, it activates bed temp and then fails to sensor. M421 doesn't seem to do anything. M500 doesn't save the changes. Recompiled firmware with "Edit Mesh" - While I can see mesh points in the LCD menu, editing them sets it to "0.2" and even then it does save, there is no save …, OctoKlipper plugin had this Assisted Bed Leveling wizard that allowed me to set the 5 locations and just move the head from location to location, raising it first then lowering when it arrives at the location. It is perfect, it saves me lots of time leveling. I can't seem to find a way to do the same in Fluidd. , Keep doing this until you get the same friction on paper as before.\. Send the command “ACCEPT” then “SAVE_CONFIG”\. Lastly perform a auto bed level, once complete, before pressing the save button test your z offset. Move it up 1mm, put paper under, move it down 1mm. It should be same friction as all 4 corners as before. Lastly press ..., After X gantry is level start “bed level”. Adjust each corner until everything close, around 00:05 or less. Now you should have a fairly square bed with frame. Next home all and warm up bed to 60C and nozzle 160, and let bed and probe heat soak for around 5 minutes after bed is at 60C. Then run Z Tilt and bed mesh., With the bed mesh leveling I don’t have any issues with bed adhesion and haven’t had a print fail since I figured out the code to enable it in my stl files. Where I could see it being an issue one day is once the item comes off the bed it has the same curve as the bed. If I was doing something that required a tight clearance and the warping ..., Trying to understand this aspect of bed mesh leveling - General Discussion - Klipper. Poken1151 February 14, 2022, 5:55pm 1. So I’ve been trying deal with a slightly …, Op needs to make sure that RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 is defined or else add M420 S1 to their start gcode. The mesh also needs to be saved with M500 after creation or it will be lost when the printer reboots. This page has all the info. RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 is good if your mesh is already on before …, Jan 9, 2023 · Klipper: Bed Mesh – Simply Explained. by Matteo Parenti. Published Jan 9, 2023. Advertisement. First layers can be hard to get right. Once you've got the firmware up and running, learn how to work the Klipper bed mesh compensation. , Odd dip in bed mesh when running Fluidd. I just installed Fluidd/Klipper on my raspberry pi 3b and whenever I level my bed I have this really big consistent dip in the bed making it difficult to level the bed. I'm not sure if this is because of the bed actually being slightly warped, or if it's something software related, I increased my probing ... , Only once that has been successfully configured and confirmed should you then take a look at your mesh_max. The mesh_max value is calculated as: stepper_y.position_max + probe.y_offset. If your position_max is 240 and your probe's y_offset is -40.5 then: your mesh_max must be (at most): 241 - 40.5 = 200.5., Here's the config for anyone wanting the same sort of thing. Adjust your screw x/y coordinates to your machine. This is for an Ender-3 Pro. Also note the abort function has an added raise Z of 10. I find this to be more suitable than letting the hotend sit close to the bed. [bed_screws] screw1: 32,32 screw2: 203,32 screw3: 203,203 …, Following the steps there will solve almost all leveling issues with the CR6 SE. 1. kodaxmax • 1 yr. ago. There should be > 0.19 varience (logicially 0, assuming the table isnt moving). If it is changing each time, that means either something is moving that shouldn't be, or the sensor/software has errors.